Wednesday 18 January 2012

Mardi Gras and Marinet

It has been a strange few days, though that is common here in Haiti.
We began the cycle of Mardi Gras in Jacmel on Sunday.



There seemed to be wave after wave of people "blacked up" for the event. The people who are eager to get involved covered themselves in a black tar like substance and ran up the street. To be honest I have not asked what the "masking" with black signifies and perhaps I shall explore that further in another installment, as we have another Mardi Gras this Sunday, which I should also like to get some photographs of.

It was only a day or so after that Papa Danis announced that he had something for me to photograph and help with. I wandered back to Cyvadier to find a well organised pile of wood, and foliage, from the tree that had been cut down to make tambour from. Papa was workinf away at arranging the foliage and started to throw rocks on top of it, so I jumped in to give him a hand.




We continued work for some time and then decided that with the sunlight leaving we would continue the following day. As we worked I had the distinct impression form Marinet that it was time to give her a goat, and due to the nature of the work at hand it made a little too much sense. I mentioned it to Papa Danis and we organised to purchase a goat the following morning.

Papa Danis managed to secure a beautiful goat and so we continued on the work. It was Tuesday and so perfect to work with the Petwo Lwa. Regardless of anything we were doing what was not only asked of us though what we enjoy greatly, working with the Lwa.





The goat was lowered into the middle of the pile of rocks and we prepared to hold the prayer. My brother, Sonson was coming along for the work, and we started our own prayers, prior to singing La Priye Ginen. The time eventually came and we lit the fire. It was a beautiful and sad occasion. I find that every time we brule Marinet I end up fighting back some tears. There is a strange sadness and release that comes with this particular service. Whilst the fire was not intended for this purpose initially, and so the building of the wood and rocks differs from the traditional brule Marinet, it was she who asked for this work at this time.




There was a strange phenomena during the burning process. Somehow the goat was released from the centre of the fire. She escaped into the garden though did not run away. Not one hair was burned. With the collapsing wood and the rocks caving in, there was no reasonable explanation of this. Marinet was happy and the last photo actually shows that within the flames a goats head appeared and then left. The work was done.

Today we gave the goat to Papa Danis' father to look after, and made him very happy. The fire still smoulders and we have been smiled upon. I was very happy that this turned out the way it did, and due to specific circumstance not only are the Lwa thankful for the work that we have done, though also an old man is very happy.

Tuesday 10 January 2012

Just do it...


In Haiti there is an amazing attitude that allows people to simply get the job done. The cement loaded onto this truck was an incredible amount too great for the machine, though they gave it a go. Most of the time it works out, though on this occasion it did not. The T-junction that this occurred on is at the end of the main road through Jacmel. Traffic managed to flow around this intersection without fuss whilst swiftly another truck appeared and with a few men the loads were transferred and the two trucks continued on the delivery. In many other cities police would have been present and so too would an onslaught of needless people and machinery. Here the job just gets done.

This is life in Haiti, everything is simpler and yet more confused. Everything is a dichotomy as I keep referring to in these little slices of thought. I never experienced this level of chaos and order whilst living in Australia. To be sure I could not imagine society in Australia surviving the way it does here. There is an incredible resilience in these people, and yet all too often things are simply swept under the carpet. The amazing thing about this attitude is that sooner or later the lumps under the carpet are not only noticeable though also easy to trip over. Somehow in Haiti, there are seldom times that people trip over.



This is one of the ways in which things move along here in Haiti: the religion. Whilst there are those who profess to be staunch protestants, there is Vodou and magick in everyday life which is an inescapable part of the culture. Once a year there is Carnival in Jacmel and the weekly madri-gras leading up to it start on this coming Sunday. I am hoping to get some pictures and footage to share during that time. The video-music above is from Azor, one of the great Racine singers who unfortunately died last year, we here of an infection. The hospital system here is dismal. My adopted grandmother went to hospital last Sunday with a broken wrist, after taking a fall. The result from the visit was a wait until Tuesday when the doctor would be at the hospital. Yesterday she underwent surgery and all shall be well, I am very happy to report. The fall seems to have been the result of persecution, which is a form of malevolent magick used by unkind soles here. She is a lovely lady who knows Medsen-Fey, the art of using leaves to cure, mixed with many prayers to Saints and even the Lwa of Vodou. Why would anyone want to hurt her? The answer is they did not, though magick falls awry at times, and the intended target is not always the one who receives the ill tide of will.

Work has been done and the magick lifted, and the Lwa have worked to ensure a swift and gracious recovery. This is my job here as one of the hougan at the local peristyle. We work to benefit people of all persuasions. In healing there can be no prejudice, when someone is in need someone needs to heed the call. This is life and love is necessary at every turn. Without love we would all fall into a place best left alone. Everyone endures slices of it, and this is what serves to remind us to respect other people and help where we can. At least it does for me. When I broke up with my ex I found myself seeing other couples and becoming overjoyed for them. I still feel this way when I see people in love. No matter who you are or where you may be love is an important part of life, or at least so for me. At times where love is lacking or being restrained there must be comfort in other forms.

One thing I find great comfort in here is nature. I have seen many beautiful things and yesterday, sitting on a rock above the ocean was one such experience. Looking out at the seemingly endless ocean i felt at peace. The rocks edging the terrain also took on a beauty of there own, lying in seemingly chaotic ways though resting together like lovers of a time gone past. The plants and animals near by, further sentiments of beauty. It was one of the most tranquil experiences of my life. I had gone there to light a candle for one of the Lwa and found my self sitting there gazing in wonderment of nature. I really need to remember to take my camera out with me.

There is a point in life where we need to make difficult decisions and now is one such moment for me. I do have many a synchronicity helping me along, and for this I am grateful. Change is sweeping in with this New Year and it feels a little like a round-a-bout at the moment, though the amazing thing will be in finding where one may get off. For me an adventure is still afoot. It is true that I am getting to know my way around, and that the language is not the challenge that it was. It is also true that there are many people here who now know who I am, though the surprise is still to come. There are events which have almost become daily repetitions and yet there are things that change in every circumstance. The real thing left to change is myself. That is the most interesting journey.